What is the transmit power in Turbo Mode? It was 9dB before but it looks that in Turbo Mode it is still far away from 20dB wich means it DOESN’T HELP AT ALL. Why don’t you give customers choice between 1-20dB. Please don’t write about regulations becasuse all cuntries have different regulations especially China. Why do you want to decide for me. Another insignificant “improvement”.
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Turbo mode uses the maximum transmission power supported by the chip - 20dB
@Alexie : I am also experiencing no difference between Turbo Mode ‘On’ and ‘Off’:
Turbo Mode ‘Off’
Turbo Mode ‘On’
Other than toggling the switch in the menu, is there anything else that needs to be done for the increase in db to take effect?
I also don’t see signal increase on the zigbee map in turbo mode
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There must be some bug or real signal strenght is much lower then 20dB. When I use my Zigbee Bridge (20dB) everything works perfet. The same is with Dongle E flashed with router firmware.All devices have the same chipset and I put it in exactly the same place. When I use Dongle E I see on the Zigbee map that signal is strong but when I’m using iHost in Turbo Mode signal is weak and some of devices are disconnected. In my opinion it is intended action of sonoff only to buy more sonoff devices with router possibility. Unfortunatelly it will not work because all this router devices can’t connect to iHost with such weak signal and their signal is even worst. That is really sad and I don’t understand sonoff at all.
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Zigbee signal of iHost is disaster .I have the same appliances in HA with sonoff dongle and work very good.
What is shown here is not signal power and signal strength … Instead of RSSI, the zigbee map showing LQI. If you look at the details page of this ZBMini 2 device, you may see that the RSSI probably shows good.
LQI measures the overall communication effect - even if the transmit power is adjusted to 100db, it will not necessarily affect the display here.
I understand your explanations but it doesn’t change the fact that some of my zigbee devices are disconnected and on some I have reading breaks. It is the same situation before I set Turbo Mode. It is hard to believe that Turbo Mode works because as I have written in previous post I don’t have such problems with Zigbee Bridge and Dongle E.
I don’t see any improvement with Turbo Mode. I have exactly the same problems as before. I know that zigbee map is not the best tool to talk about signal strenght. I’m talking about dissconected divices. Luckily I have my old zigbee bridge. Maybe you should check the firmware before realese… Now Turbo Mode is just a toggle wich is doig nothing.
@Alexie : Thanks for the detailed info. Learned something new.
But unfortunately I also do not see any difference in RSSI:
Turbo Mode Off
Turbo Mode On
As you can see, the RSSI is Weak whether Turbo Mode is On or Off
Any other ideas?
Is there any Sonoff official to address this issue? The fact remains that iHost has the worst Zigbee signal compared to other Sonoff bridges.
Why don’t the SBMINI Show up a Routers and Why do the ZBMINE not form a Mesh Network. I got 4 off ZBMINI set up 10 meters appart and the last one at 40m out does not get any sigle relay of the third in line. Works perfectly in HomeAssistant.
Because ZBMINI are low power device that without neutral lines power supply, they operate with very low power consumption. Most of the time it works in a dormant state, so they can’t do any data relay as a router device.
The Zigbee Mini does have a neutral and does work as a router.
Yes, you are right, I was wrong. The ZBMini is a Router device, and the ZBMINI-L is a low-power device.
Same concern, one question different spot in the forum
Any clue ?
I think it is how they display the map on the iHost when compared to ZHA and Zigbee2MQTT. I suspect there are side to side connections but they are not displayed. The routing of devices is weird on ZHA & Zigbee2MQTT too but it’s harder to see on ZHA/Zigbee2MQTT. I personally prefer their map approach. Also in Zigbee2MQTT (and maybe ZHA but I never saw it) you can permit pairing only to a chosen router. That way you can force a more sensible route, but once part of the network they will still go insensible over time.
This is the way it is displayed FYI:
In my experience it is very easy not to get the contacts for the door/window sensor good as they get bent with every battery insertion, as such it can appear but be disconnected most times the door is open. If you remove the battery, pop the PCB out, make sure the metal battery holder is well shaped, put the battery in and then replace the whole thing.
It seems like the display is of the device when it happens to connect but no mention of the average over all the time. I actually thought the d/w sensor was the worst but now they work faultlessly, although every time I have to change the battery it requires the same trick.