Hey guys,
I need your guidance and expertise to wire Multi-way switch wiring for ZBMini L2 for the hallway.
Here is the schema of the wiring.
Would you be able to help to find the correct way of integtating ZBMini L2? Where and how I should place it?
I am not good at electrical connections.
Since your hot line enters the left-hand switch and the light bulb is being fed from the right-hand switch, the only way I see to do it without pulling another wire is to jumper the right-hand switch and lose the functionality of it.
Based on your drawing above:
(1.) In the right switch tie the runner wire on ‘2’ to the wire on ‘L’ or just place a jumper between them. This makes the switch a dummy. The runner wire is now the output to the light bulb from the perspective of the left switch.
(2.) In the left switch remove the runner on ‘4’ and connect it to the mini ‘L Out’.
(3.) In the left switch place a short wire from ‘L’ to ‘L In’ on the mini.
(4.) In the left switch place a short wire from where you removed the runner at ‘4’ and connect it to the mini ‘S2’.
(5.) In the left switch remove the runner wire from ‘2’ and cap it with a wire nut.
Make sure you get the correct runner wire that you jumped in the right switch when you connect it to ‘L Out’ in the left switch.
Note that if you would rather lose the functionality of the left-hand switch, you could jumper it and use one of the runners to take the hot wire over to the right hand switch.
I hope that helps!
Please consult a professional electrician or our support if you need help with wiring.
If your electrical installation looks like the diagram shown, using ZBINIMIL2 to control the lighting will not be possible at all. You need a third wire, which does not seem to be available. As @ward suggested, consult an electrician. Better be safe than sorry 
There are other solutions based on ZBMINIL2, but these too require modification and investment in e.g. S-MATE2.
The ZBMINI L2 doesn’t need/use the neutral and he doesn’t have a hot wire (L1) in the right hand box. It would have to be pulled.
The third wire is needed and it seems there are only two available, according to the diagram provided.
I understand it as it is a common circuit for using two switches to control a light. Your problem is that you cannot use both switches with the mini unless you pull another wire. You can jumper one switch (and make it a dummy) as I described in my first answer and use the mini and only the left switch with your existing wiring. Otherwise, you will have to pull a hot wire to the right-hand box.
So, you need 4 conductors going to the right-side box. The 2 runners. The hot line and the output to the light. If there are two insulated conductors running from the box to the light you might be able to take the unused one and connect it to the hot wire in the attic. You might also consider putting the mini in the attic but that is a hot environment. Or maybe hire the professional electrician!
I was browsing the ZBMINI manual and noticed it can be set to work with momentary contact push button switches. This gave me an idea on a pretty cool way you could do your installation with your existing wiring. Replace your switches with pushbuttons and use the existing traveler wires to carry the hot and switch signal from the left box to the right box. Place the mini in the right box.
Great idea, but you won’t do it with the existing wiring. Either way, three wires are needed and there are only two.
The three wires are there already. The two runners and the wire that feeds the light. Please refer to his original drawing. The ZBMINI does not require a neutral.
It worked! Thanks a lot everyone!
Did you use the pushbuttons? Just curious.
wow !! amazing !! I thought that S1 and S2 were only used to connect to each other, will this setup also work for Mini R2 and/or Mini R4 (sonoff wifi versions)? I mean, connecting live wire to S2 so the device recognizes when you want to turn on/off the lights?
This connection is not possible with Mini R2 and R4 switches. With these switches, no voltage must come to terminals S1 and S2.
Oh, that’s what I thought ! thanks for the quick reply !
No, I have just used the existing switches. The trick is to have additional hot line to ZBMINI as you mentioned. Luckily, I had that from the switch nearby.
Browsing the manuals it appears that the mini R2 has to use S1 and S2 for the switch.
The mini R4 extreme however does show wiring diagrams with switches from the hot line to S2. The R4 requires a neutral and I see no mention of momentary contact switches. The zbmini L2 and the mini R4 extreme look like the same device but the wifi enabled R4 probably requires more power which is why it needs the neutral connection. I would guess that the R4 might also be configured to use momentary contact switches but since the manual doesn’t mention it, I wouldn’t bet on it! Maybe someone from eWeLink can tell us.
mini R4 manual: https://sonoff.tech/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/%E8%AF%B4%E6%98%8E%E4%B9%A6-MINIR4-V1.1.pdf
Thanks for the follow-up. Glad you got it working!
