Então, aqui no meu estado é utilizado fase a ~127v 60Hz, o neutro é 0v mesmo (eu quis dizer que a junção da L1+L2 ficaria os ~220v (meço de 220v à 240v)) e no caso a junção da fase com o neutro resulta em ~127v. Tem alguns estados aqui no Brasil que utilizam ~220v 60Hz cada fase, ai ao juntar L1+L2 obtém-se ~440v (430v a 450v), mas não é meu caso…
In Europe, three-phase 230/400 V is most commonly used. I believe that in Brazil they use a system similar to US three-wire single phase system. 240 V circuits are used for high-demand applications, such as water heaters. These are connected between the two 120 V lines.
This is often the case, but the standard voltage in Éire is still 230V. After unification, the voltage across the EU is 230V ±10%. By law it can be +/- 10%, i.e. between 207 and 254V.
In addition, it depends on the distance from the transformer. The closer, the smaller the voltage drops on the line. You also have to take into account the error of the meter indication, which for AC measurement is often significant.
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Dual R3 arrived today
I hooked up my R3 to live and neutral and added to eWeLink app and Alexa. That gave me the ability to test before adding switches and light. All functioned OK, including both channels.
I hooked up one LED light (bought from Leroymerlin Portimão, Portugal) and tested, then added a switch and tested again.
I plugged my set up board into a double gang socket (outlet) and a Kettle rated at 2.5 to 3Kw and my voltage was 240v off load. 3Kw loading cause no false triggering with sudden loading.
I then used my inductive loop amp to record various stages of switching and operation. No failures occurred. I have a video of my audio recording and switching made in voice memos for iPad which clearly shows audibly and graphically triggering on and off for normal operation. (I haven’t worked out how to post video on this site yet, maybe someone can tell me how and I’ll post it).
From setting this up it occurred to me that a whole load of wiring can be tested by disconnecting S1, S2 and then LEDs in a logical order. R3 only needs power to test its internals, switch and eWeLink app and Alexa.
If that doesn’t clear the problem try substituting the power supply with a battery and inverter and gradually replace lights and switches methodically.
If the power lines outside are causing a problem with a high magnetic field my loop amp would clearly hear this.
I would test this way if I had the problem. I suspect a wiring problem probably during installation in the past, possibly.
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The chirping sound is idle. The hum is after light switched on mode. The highest spike is turning off.
It’s a graphical representation of the audio recorded using voice memos app in iPad. Then converted to mp4 so other devices can read it without difficulty.
I gave me a good idea as to what’s going on.
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If your wires are in the same channel, then the current going to the water heater is induced to the de-energized power wire of the lamp, so it periodically flashes. If my assumption is correct, then you need to either separate the wires or hang a capacitor. Such lamps do not need a lot of current for flashing; parallel wires will provide sufficient induction. Dark forces of electricity!
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Entendo, porém os Flashes acontecem ligando qualquer dos chuveiros, e um deles não esta no mesmo canal. A lâmpada pisca mas o Sonoff Dual R3 que a aciona (é registrado no LOG como se tivesse pressionando o interruptor). Vou tentar um capacitor para o Sonoff.
Vou fazer estes testes retirando os fios do S1 e S2 e os outros como você mencionou! Agradeço toda a ajuda até o momento.
UPDATE. I have just had my dual R3 false turn off (Device triggered in the log). Happened just after my wife put on washing machine.
I have only S1 connected. (live wire com.to push operate make contact switch1way). Picture shows normal unoperated diagram of switch.[en.composer.color_ui_default_text]
So to be clear, led lamp is connected, all live and neutrals as well as S1. S1 cant get a signal as it’s switch is open circuit except when pushed to operate.
So triggering is probably dirty mains from washing machine in my case. I’ll hunt around and see if I can find a ferrite ring to slip over the incoming mains lead to R3.
It’s 2250 hours here so I’m a bit tired now.
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Have you made any progress?
I’ve spent the past week testing and I was mistaken that our washing machine triggered my dual R3. It was coincident with my wife using the washing machine and my leaving the loop timer operative.
Therefore I have had no false triggering with a 3Kw load. I have tried RF car key fob and magnetic pulses to try and reproduce. I think the sonoff is a solid reliable device and can cope with reasonable emi.
If I could reproduce false triggering I would have tried ferrite beads, capacitors, voltage dependent resistors, large ferrite rings and tried to cure at source device.
If you have isolated the problem to your shower units, I think I would ask the manufacturer of the showers if they are aware of any problems with emi and if they have a solution.
Olá, ainda não pude verificar nada, esta semana tive que resolver um grande problema de construção de outro profissional e não tive tempo suficiente para resolver…
Se conseguir algo vou postar aqui, obrigado por tudo até agora.
Olá, estive off muito tempo, estou muito cheio de trabalho… A casa continua piscando, desde lá retirei os fios do interruptor S1 e S2 (deixei somente digital) e melhorou 90%, as vezes ocorre de piscar, porém começaram mais lugares na casa… Vou comprar o capacitor e tentar instalar em todos eles. Porém fiquei com a dúvida, acho que devo instalar esse capacitor na entrada de energia do Sonoff correto? para que ele não tenha ocilação isso?
I too have been away for three months. I think that there is still one more test to make. Disconnect the light and see if the dual R3 records a false trigger in its log with s1 and s2 still disconnected, leaving only the power supply connected. I’m thinking that will prove if it’s a noisy power supply causing the problem. (Assuming it’s not radio frequency breakthrough)
A further test I would make is to run an 220v inverter off a12v car battery to provide a “clean” power supply.
I think that I would have also wired up a dual R3 on a piece of wooden board with a mains plug, switches and light to make for easier testing especially when it comes to trying filters.
Regards Rob Ford (txe2defender)
Something else to consider.
I’ve just tried my dual R3 with the power state set to on at power on.
By holding a mains outlet switch at the point where it’s just operated (to simulate severe voltage drop) it’s possible to reproduce the flashing that’s you have). It might be worth checking that the power on state is set to off. (I set mine to on for testing).
If that is the problem and setting to off clears the fault, I would be looking for a loose connection in the wiring. Maybe bad connection in fuse box, junction box or similar.
I have had two faults in the past one on a fluorescent light terminal and another in a spur mains socket feed caused by a poor termination in the fuse box.
Also a telephone wire trapped under a suspended floor board which caused the telephone bell to ring every time someone walked on that particular floorboard.
Rob Ford