I needed to install a sonoff zbmini L2 1 meter away from the physical switch, therefore requiring 1 meter of wire for s1 and another 1 meter of wire for s2. Could this interfere with the operation of the device?
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Rather not. It is, after all, a galvanic connection and a metre long distance has little effect. You can easily check this by doing a test installation.
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My concern is about electromagnetic induction in wires running in the same conduit, because in this case, the area of influence increases. There is also the problem of two different phases running in the same conduit, one for the sockets and another for the lamps.
You worry too much 
problem solved with larger diameter wires. I had used 1mm and increased it to 1.5mm.
Does it really matter? What’s the functional difference?
I can’t explain. This was the first time I had to put the device in a separate wall box, due to lack of space. I always used a 1mm cable to connect S1 and S2 to the switch, with a maximum length of 10cm. I believed that all switches, since the first generation of Sonoff Mini, would have a low voltage between these terminals. But I saw that from the 3rd generation onwards they started to have the phase voltage, in my case 220V. So I chose to use a larger diameter wire. I also know that the large difference between the wire gauges running in the same conduit can affect the current that flows through them, due to inductance. This may be a problem specific to the ZBMini L2, due to the lack of neutral.
Sonoff has a new device ZBM5 that can work without a neutral wire. Maybe this will be a better solution for you. Think about it.
It is highly improbable that the diameter of the wires will have any impact on performance. In this case, these are logic states and not voltage, current or crosstalk issues. In my view, you are addressing a non-existent or negligible issue with an unfounded theory. Perhaps someone else will offer expert opinion.
No, I tested the continuity of the wires with a multimeter and everything was correct and I also used insulated crimp terminals. I suspected a defect in the switch, I replaced it, but the problem persisted. I repeat, it must be something specific to the Sonoff mini without neutral. Another problem I noticed is that it does not work by supplying only s1, s2 and Lin. I would only use it as a trigger for the virtual parallel.
ZBMINIL2 must have a closed electrical circuit to work. A light bulb must be connected to the L(out) output.
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That’s just how it’s made. No surprises there. Maybe give the manuals a glance once in a while
Yes, and the manual should already come with the device.
Your device was without one? How odd.
I have installed about 10 sonoff mini r3, had the same problem, s1 & s2 wires 5+ meters long. I have used two 50microfarad capacitors for each device, + poles connected to S1, s2, negative pole connected to Line IN. The only disadvange is a delay in the on/off switching of the load vs the phisical action of changing the state of the wall switch
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Why did you do that?
Another issue is that we originally discussed ZBMINIL2. And here the wiring and the way the device is powered is different. Also, the effect of the length of the wires connecting the switch does not really appeal to me. Perhaps @Ward will ask his colleagues in the Sonoff engineering department for a comment. That might be conclusive.
@SONOFF-Staff Please jump in and take a look
This is very topical for me right now, but I am considering using the Minir4.
What I do not understand is why the device is using line voltage on S1/S2. It’s a trigger to toggle the switch and I would have thought a nominal 3.3 or 5v would have been sufficient to trigger.
Doing this would make installation easy as you would not be as problematic as using 1mm or 1.5mm twin and earth. In place of this you could use standard twisted pair telephone wire removing interference.
In the mean time, going back to the subject, are you saying the R4 should really be installed close (as in x CM away) from the physical switch? I was considering moving the switch close to the circuit and running the trigger wire to the wall switch.
The S1 & S2 inputs are + 3.3V compared to LineIN and, supposing you have a 230 volts mains/power line, they are 233.3 V above Neutral. So, LineIn is negative compared to S1 & S2 and a electrolithic capacitor has to be connected respecting the + and - of the circuit. If you have a voltmeter, you may test the voltages involved.
The purpose of the capacitors is to reduce/smooth the interferences originate by the houss electrical wiring.